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Cake day: June 13th, 2023

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  • GreatAlbatross@feddit.ukto196@lemmy.blahaj.zoneRule!
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    19 days ago

    It depends on the version of atmos.

    Full fat cinema atmos can scale to (iirc) 512 channels. (Things may have changed since I last was involved!)

    In that case, it’s a 7.1 bed, and all the other channels are effectively coordinates in the room, and the processor steers objects between them in real time, rather than having defined tracks.








  • Ah, I meant I didn’t want to feel like I was condescendingly explaining things to people who already knew.

    It’s free software, and supports a lot of things.

    Homeassistant can be run completely locally. The on an old pc, raspi, or even a virtual machine when you’re trying it out.

    Operation wise, you can use a browser, or the app for added functionality (for example, it can log the battery level of your phone)

    And with the various sensors and devices you can build up automations.
    So, for example, when phone battery is below 20% at 10pm, flash the bedroom light to remind you to charge.

    They even have a demo based on a fake house on their website for looking at.

    The only physical thing you’d need otherwise is a zigbee dongle (£20-ish).


  • You’ll need to have a zigbee radio on a HomeAssistant instance (maybe possible with other software).
    And on HomeAssistant, run ZHA (or similar) with the zigbee radio.
    Sorry if that’s teaching to suck eggs, just wanted to clarify.

    If you’re already set up with that, it’s just a case of deleting a bulb from the Hue bridge, and searching for it using the zigbee integration. Once it’s deleted from Hue, it will go into pairing mode. You may need to power cycle the bulb if it does not appear in the search within 10s.

    HASS was able to support my white/ambiance bulbs and colour bulbs without any issues. In fact, it responds faster. The only downside is that they don’t so much fade, as jump to a new value. The update frequency is about 2 times per second.





  • Have a think about how you want to arrange your data. While you can access windows partitions and files under Linux (and vise versa), it’s better not to be constantly be mounting your windows C drive from another OS. Plus, if you’re mid-update, or had to restart suddenly, windows will happily mark your drive as read-only.

    I use 4 partitions for a dual boot. Sizes are based on a 1TB drive.

    • Windows C (100GB or so, OS drive). Only mounted by Linux if I have a big problem.
    • Windows D (NTFS formatted, my main storage partition. Mounted all the time by Linux. 700GB or so)
    • Linux root (50GB or so, EX4 formatted)
    • Linux storage (remaining space, EX4 formatted used for big programs, games, home folder)

    This way, Windows OS is separate, main storage is accessible to both without tripping over permissions, linux root drive is separate from storage so reinstalling isn’t so painful if something goes very wrong.